It’s Delightful, It’s Delicious, It’s de Luxembourg.

bouneschluppWhile chatting with a friend the other day over lunch, the conversation turned to travel– where we’ve been, where we’d like to go, etc.

“Have you ever been abroad?” I asked my friend in a tone not unlike a half-soused society matron at a garden party. He nodded. I was expecting him to mention one of the usual places one goes to expand one’s global horizons, like France, or Italy, or Japan.

“Well, I lived in Luxembourg for three years.”

This wasn’t the answer I had expected, which both threw me and delighted me at the same time.

Luxembourg? Seriously?” I had to admit that, over the past forty years, I had never given that country the time of day, except perhaps in thinking that it’s name gave the Benelux countries a decidedly luxurious ring.

And all of a sudden, I needed to know more about the last remaining Grand Duchy in existence. “Do they have their own language or do they speak French or German? Are they called Luxembourgeois? Do they look like regular Europeans with ten fingers and ten toes and whatnot?” And, lastly, since this was lunch and I was very hungry, “What do people in Luxembourg eat?

My questions were patiently answered. They do speak French and German, but they have their own, distinct language– Luxembourgish. By the sound of things, however, the Luxembourgeoisie weren’t above borrowing the occasional cup of nouns from their neighbors.

The people, who look rather normal by European standards so I am told, are called Luxembourgers, and they eat very well, thank you very much.

“Is there a national dish?” I asked, which is a foolish question, given the fact that even the French or the Greeks or the Japanese would have trouble coming up with their own.

“Well, there’s Bounen,” he said. The sound that came out of his mouth was neither “boon-in” nor “bone-in”, but somewhere in between. “Basically, it’s beans and ham.” When I asked him how to spell it, he told me he was uncertain, since no Luxembourger he knew could spell  it either.

And so, there we were, waiting at the bar for a table on a busy Saturday afternoon, talking about Luxembourg. A glass of wine at my elbow, and interesting fellow to talk to, and a Cole Porter tune running through my head.

“Well, I guess I know what I’m writing about this week,” I said.

So here I am, writing about Bounen.

The dish itself is not called Bounen, but BouneschluppBounen is simply the Luxembourgish (Luxembourgers, please correct me if I am wrong on this and I will gladly update) word for beans. In this case, green beans. Bouneschlupp— green bean soup. With potatoes, bacon, and onions. To put it into terms that I could easily understand, from a cooking standpoint, at least, it’s a chowder– green bean chowder.

It might not be as elegant or interesting as other Luxembourger fare like Quetscheflued (plum tart) or Haam am Hée (Ham in hay– I really wanted to try this one, but hay is hard to come by on short notice). It’s hearty and, in the wrong hands, downright homely, but it is immensely satisfying.

To mangle that Cole Porter tune that was invading my head over lunch, it’s delightful, it’s delicious, and it’s, well, de-Luxembourg.

Bouneshclupp

Serves 4 to 6 Luxembourgers

There doesn’t seem to be one go-to recipe for this chowdery soup, which isn’t surprising, since there isn’t one go-to spelling for the dish itself. Does one spell it Bouneschlupp, or Bou’neschlupp? It doesn’t matter too much, given the fact that there are two generations of Luxembourgers who can’t manage to spell their own language, thanks to a government decision to teach only German and French in school and leave the native language for home use. Thanks to a healthy increase in good sense and national pride, that seems to have changed.

This is essentially a culling of various recipes. Some looked very bland– calling for little more than the beans, bacon, potatoes, and water; others entirely too complicated, with far too many ingredients for a soup as simple and humble as this is and, as far as I can tell, should be. Some folks thicken theirs with flour, some with fresh cream, others with sour cream.

After making the Bouneschlupp, I offered to drop some off to my friend who lead me to the discovery of Luxembourger cuisine in the first place. He reminded me that he has never actually tasted it. I must have missed that part. So there went my expert Bouneschlupp opinion.

It doesn’t matter, really. Make up your own Bouneschlupp. Given the fact that there are fewer Luxembourgers than there are San Franciscans and nearly 6.8 billion people in the world, you’ve got a .oo73% chance of knowing someone who is going to tell you you’ve made it wrong.

Serves Four Luxembourgers

Ingredients:

• 4 cups fresh green beans, cut into bite-sized pieces, with the ends trimmed (about a pound)
• 2 cups waxy potatoes, cleaned and medium diced (about two, medium-sized ones)
• 4 pieces of thickly sliced bacon, diced
• 6 cups of cold water
• 1 medium-sized  carrot, finely diced
• 1 large shallot, finely diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• Salt and pepper
• 2 to 3 tablespoons sour cream
• Chives, minced
• Sausage (optional). Non-spicy, humble, German-style sausage.

Preparation:

1. In a heavy-bottomed Dutch or Luxembourgish oven, cook bacon bits over medium heat until browned and crispy. If using sausage, throw that in, too, and brown. Drain meat, reserving the fat. Set bacon and sausage aside.

2. Return meat fat to the pot, add carrots and shallot (which, incidentally, I just learned is correctly pronounced sha-LOT, and not the other way around [thank you Renée]), and cook gently until translucent– about 3 minutes. You’re not looking to give them color, you’re just mellowing them. Add garlic at the end, stir a moment or two, then add beans.

3. Cover vegetables with cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, covered with a snug lid. Many recipes will call for heavily salted water at this point. I prefer doing my serious seasoning at the end. The meat fat will be salty, remember. Add about half the bacon now, for flavoring purposes, reserving the other half for future, crunchy garnishing purposes. Cook for about 30 minutes.

4. Add potatoes to the pot and stir them in. Simmer for another 40 minutes, covered, or until potatoes are very tender. Salt and pepper to your heart’s desire.

5. Turn off heat. If using sausage, bury it within the Bouneschlupp, to warm. Before serving add sour cream, stirring it in gently in order to not totally destroy the now-delicate potatoes. Though some people prefer to thicken their soup with flour, I find that the starch from the potatoes, plus a little help from sour cream, gives the soup all the body it needs.

6. Remove sausage from pot and slice. Ladle soup into bowls, top with sliced sausage, and sprinkle with chives. Serve with crusty bread and presto! You’ll feel like you’re back in Luxembourg City with the old gang, talking of the good old days of Grand Duchess Charlotte and not caring that there isn’t a single university in the land wherein one might earn a degree in Luxembourgish linguistics.

Gudden appetit! Or however one chooses to spell it.

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About Michael Procopio

I write about food and am very fond of Edward Gorey. And gin.
This entry was posted in Rants and Stories, Savories and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

27 Responses to It’s Delightful, It’s Delicious, It’s de Luxembourg.

  1. Jay says:

    I have little doubt that if I lived near you I’d weigh more than I do. This looks delicious.

  2. roy says:

    This is eerily similar to a green bean and potato soup that I had in Missouri. I was told it was something that everyone made out there, just a dish that was thrown together and no real recipe.

    Is Missouri a Luxembourg refuge?

    • Growler says:

      hi Roy, yes there are some families living in Missouri today that originated from Luxembourg. Then again, the Bouneschlupp can also be found in the German and French regions around the Grand-Duchy.

  3. jodi says:

    Obviously it’s an evil plan by Luxembourg to take over the world. That there’s stewed green beans or leather-britches.

    Walmart carries a version, lol

    http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10452260

    (I know because have two cans in the cupboard)

  4. michaelprocopio says:

    Oh, Jodi… just imagine a Luxembourgish world: Ham, leather clothing, no universities, and more ham.

    And how are the canned beans with ham and potatoes?

    • Fiona says:

      Luxembourg has a university! But most Luxembourgers choose to study abroad, in places like Berlin, Vienna, Paris, London, etc.

  5. And if there are no Luxembourgers around to enjoy this, perhaps it can be served to the Lady of Shallot, or to her more homely cousin, the Housewife of Garlick.

  6. Kriibs says:

    I don’t know how I ended up on this page…

    …but I’m from Luxembourg and i just wanted to add that I don’t know any people from here that actually eat ‘Bounenschlupp’ (except for people over 75)…

    Anyway, cool article =)

  7. bib says:

    I’m a Luxembourger whose stumbled across your blog. You are correct, Bounen means beans and I don’t know how to spell in my own language! Crazy aye. Nice to see that we get some coverage abroad for our food! Good recipe.

  8. michaelprocopio says:

    David– I don’t know how I could ever let a clever comment from you slip by me. Housewife of Garlick indeed.

    Kriibs– I don’t know how you ended up here either, but I am delighted you dropped in.

    Bib– Anything I can do to further the Luxembourgish cause, you let me know.

  9. folky says:

    Hi! Had a good laugh when I recently found this article. Good to see you folks also enjoy the Bouneschlupp! I’m Belgian and actually that soup is also a southern Belgium typical dish. It’s a typical dish in what we call the “grande région”, in fact. The very base of it is green beans. Potatoes are there mostly to bind the soup a bit (same weight as for the beans), so you can use flour if you prefer but the taste is not the same. To put fresh or sour cream in your own plate is part of the recipe. When you add water, you can also add a very few vinegar. Old Luxemburger and Belgian folks often used bacon and onions to begin the dish and to spice it. Of course, you can add ham (as they do in southern Belgium), meat sausages (as they do in Luxembourg), or another cooked pork meat that is typical of your place. If ever you’re a vegetarian, you even can replace it by some vegetarian sausages.

  10. folky says:

    Forgot to tell about the “grande région”, or grand region: it’s Saarland (Germany), Gaume and Belgian Lorraine (Belgium), and Lorraine (France).
    Guten Appetit! 😉

    • michaelprocopio says:

      I am so happy you stopped by to comment! No one around here (except my friend who lived in Luxembourg) has ever even heard of the dish. It’s nice to get a note from someone familiar with it! Thank you very much.

      Michael

  11. Joris says:

    Hello michael,

    Last week we went on a summer camp with our girl scouts in Wiltz, luxembourg. We searched for a real luxembourgish dish and stumbled upon your recipe. I just wanted to say that I never ate such a nice dish on a summer camp ever. The girls liked it very much too. They ate it till there was nothing left than an empty pot. And now the bounenschlupp is boiling on my stove at home! Thank you for the great recipe!

    Kind regards,
    Joris

    • It makes me really happy that: a) you made my bounenschlupp recipe, b) you loved it, and c) you took the time to tell me that. I’ve wanted to visit Luxembourg for a long time now. I hope you took lots of photos.

      Thanks for stopping by.

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  13. Anna says:

    http://wwwen.uni.lu/studies/flshase/formation_continue_letzebuerger_sprooch_a_kultur

    Im sorry but there is a possibility to obtain in University of LUxembourg a certificate in Luxembourgish language and culture …overall nice article.

  14. Dale says:

    I’m getting ready to make this as part of my Christmas Eve dinner, but I have to admit I’m not sure what a “Non-spicy, humble, German-style sausage” might be. What exactly should I be looking for? I’m in the Los Angeles area, so any exact shopping tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

    • Dale,

      Sorry for being vague in my sausage suggestions. I’m sure you could use any sort of sausage you prefer. I only suggest that you don’t use something like chorizo, which would slick up the dish with an unappealing reddish oil. I believe (I wrote this three years ago, so I’m a little foggy) I used Aidell’s Chicken and Apple Sausage for my own version. Just use a mild one. Pick one you already like and you’ll like the recipe that much more.

      • Mike Pieke says:

        Sausages that can be used are mettwurscht (less spicy version of chorisco or debreczina) or “Thüringer”, similar to the sausage used in currywurst in Germany. Frankfurters are fine also.
        As a variant on beans, lentils make an excellent chowder base, brilliantly warming on winter days and nights.

  15. Debbie Shockey- Oak Grove, MO says:

    Michael, just a note… I googled Luxembourg because we do an annual camping trip on Lake Rathbun in Iowa every year with family and friends, usually a group of 50 give or take and every year it has a different theme, this year it is ‘Global Unity’. All couples were assigned a different country from around the world (none were real well known because we wanted to make it a little challenging) I drew Luxembourg and googled it and found your recipe for Bouneshclupp, which I will be making and everyone attending will ‘Go around the world’ (go to each campsite at our Group Camp ) and taste an authentic meal popular to their country and an alcoholic drink from same country. Thanks for writing the article, looking forward to making this!

    • Debbie,

      I can’t tell you how amused (and delighted) I am to know that I rank so highly in Bouneschlupp SEO search rankings. Please write again to tell me how it all went.
      And what alcoholic beverage have you chosen?

      Cheers,

      Michael

  16. Sandy says:

    Have you visited Luxembourg yet .. You wont regret it , i love living here ! . Making Bouneschlupp today, i dont like it but my luxemburgish husband &kids say i make the best one :)….

    • Sandy– I’m sorry, I only JUST saw this comment! No, I haven’t yet been there, but I’d love to go. Good luck with the Bouneschlupp. You don’t like it? I admit it’s not glamorous fare, but it is oddly satisfying. And, I imagine, nostalgic for your Luxembourgish husband.

      Cheers,

      Michael

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